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Shelters
A shelter can protect you from
the sun, insects, wind, rain, snow, hot or cold temperatures,
and enemy observation. It can give you a feeling of well-being.
It can help you maintain your will to survive. In some areas,
your need for shelter may take precedence over your need for
food and possibly even your need for water. For example,
prolonged exposure to cold can cause excessive fatigue and
weakness (exhaustion). An exhausted person may develop a
"passive” outlook, thereby losing the will to survive. The most
common error in making a shelter is to make it too large. A
shelter must be large enough to protect you. It must also
be small enough to contain your body heat, especially in cold
climates.
SHELTER SITE SELECTION
When you are in a survival situation and realize that shelter is
a high priority, start looking for shelter as soon as possible.
As you do so, remember what you will need at the site. Two
requisites are—
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It must contain material
to make the type of shelter you need.
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It must be large enough
and level enough for you to lie down comfortably.
When you consider these requisites, however, you cannot
ignore
your tactical situation or your safety. You must also
consider whether
the site—
Provides concealment from enemy observation.
Has camouflaged escape routes.
Is suitable for signaling, if necessary.
Provides protection against wild animals and rocks and dead
trees
that might fall.
Is free from insects, reptiles, and poisonous plants.
You must also remember the problems that could arise in your
environment.
For instance—
Avoid flash flood areas in foothills.
Avoid avalanche or rockslide areas in mountainous terrain.
Avoid sites near bodies of water that are below the high
water mark.
In some areas, the season of the year has a strong bearing
on the site
you select. Ideal sites for a shelter differ in winter and
summer. During
cold winter months you will want a site that will protect
you from the
cold and wind, but will have a source of fuel and water.
During summer
months in the same area you will want a source of water, but
you will
want the site to be almost insect free.
When considering shelter site selection, use the word BLISS
as a guide.
B - Blend in with the surroundings.
L - Low silhouette.
I - Irregular shape.
S - Small.
S - Secluded location.
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TYPES OF SHELTERS
When looking for a shelter site, keep in mind the type of
shelter
(protection) you need. However, you must also consider—
How much time and effort you need to build the shelter.
If the shelter will adequately protect you from the elements
(sun, wind, rain, snow).
If you have the tools to build it. If not, can you make
improvised
tools?
If you have the type and amount of materials needed to build
it.
To answer these questions, you need to know how to make
various types
of shelters and what materials you need to make them.
Poncho Lean-To
It takes only a short time and minimal equipment to build
this lean-to
(Figure
1). You need a poncho, 2 to 3 meters of rope or
parachute
suspension line, three stakes about 30 centimeters long, and
two trees or
two poles 2 to 3 meters apart. Before selecting the trees
you will use or
the location of your poles, check the wind direction. Ensure
that the
back of your lean-to will be into the wind.
To make the lean-to—
Tie off the hood of the poncho. Pull the drawstring tight,
roll the
hood longways, fold it into thirds, and tie it off with the
drawstring.
Cut the rope in half. On one long side of the poncho, tie
half of the
rope to the corner grommet. Tie the other half to the other
corner
grommet.
Attach a drip stick (about a 10-centimeter stick) to each
rope about
2.5 centimeters from the grommet. These drip sticks will
keep rainwater
from running down the ropes into the lean-to. Tying strings
(about 10 centimeters long) to each grommet along the
poncho’s top
edge will allow the water to run to and down the line
without dripping
into the shelter.
Tie the ropes about waist high on the trees (uprights). Use
a round
turn and two half hitches with a quick-release knot.
Spread the poncho and anchor it to the ground, putting
sharpened
sticks through the grommets and into the ground.
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If you plan to use the lean-to for more than one night, or
you expect
rain, make a center support for the lean-to. Make this
support with a
line. Attach one end of the line to the poncho hood and the
other end
to an overhanging branch. Make sure there is no slack in the
line.
Another method is to place a stick upright under the center
of the
lean-to. This method, however, will restrict your space and
movements
in the shelter.
For additional protection from wind and rain, place some
brush, your
rucksack, or other equipment at the sides of the lean-to.
To reduce heat loss to the ground, place some type of
insulating material,
such as leaves or pine needles, inside your lean-to.
Note: When at rest, you lose as much as 80 percent of your
body heat to
the ground.
To increase your security from enemy observation, lower the
lean-to’s
silhouette by making two changes. First, secure the support
lines to the
trees at knee height (not at waist height) using two
knee-high sticks in
the two center grommets (sides of lean-to). Second, angle
the poncho to
the ground, securing it with sharpened sticks, as above.
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Poncho Tent
This tent (Figure
2) provides a low silhouette. It also
protects you
from the elements on two sides. It has, however, less usable
space and
observation area than a lean-to, decreasing your reaction
time to enemy
detection. To make this tent, you need a poncho, two 1.
to
2.
meter
ropes, six sharpened sticks about 30 centimeters long, and
two trees
2 to 3 meters apart.
To make the tent—
Tie off the poncho hood in the same way as the poncho
lean-to.
Tie a 1.
to 2.
meter rope to the center grommet on each
side
of the poncho.
Tie the other ends of these ropes at about knee height to
two trees
2 to 3 meters apart and stretch the poncho tight.
Draw one side of the poncho tight and secure it to the
ground
pushing sharpened sticks through the grommets.
Follow the same procedure on the other side.
If you need a center support, use the same methods as for
the poncho
lean-to. Another center support is an A-frame set outside
but over
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the center of the tent (Figure
3). Use two 90- to
120-centimeter-long
sticks, one with a forked end, to form the A-frame. Tie the
hood’s drawstring
to the A-frame to support the center of the tent.
Three-Pole Parachute Tepee
If you have a parachute and three poles and the tactical
situation allows,
make a parachute tepee. It is easy and takes very little
time to make this
tepee. It provides protection from the elements and can act
as a signaling
device by enhancing a small amount of light from a fire or
candle. It
is large enough to hold several people and their equipment
and to allow
sleeping, cooking, and storing firewood.
You can make this tepee using parts of or a whole personnel
main or reserve
parachute canopy. If using a standard personnel parachute,
you need
three poles 3.5 to 4.5 meters long and about 5 centimeters
in diameter.
To make this tepee (Figure
4)—
Lay the poles on the ground and lash them together at one
end.
Stand the framework up and spread the poles to form a
tripod.
For more support, place additional poles against the tripod.
Five or
six additional poles work best, but do not lash them to the
tripod.
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Determine the wind direction and locate the entrance 90
degrees or
more from the mean wind direction.
Lay out the parachute on the “backside” of the tripod and
locate the
bridle loop (nylon web loop) at the top (apex) of the
canopy.
Place the bridle loop over the top of a free-standing pole.
Then place
the pole back up against the tripod so that the canopy’s
apex is at the
same height as the lashing on the three poles.
Wrap the canopy around one side of the tripod. The canopy
should
be of double thickness, as you are wrapping an entire
parachute. You
need only wrap half of the tripod, as the remainder of the
canopy
will encircle the tripod in the opposite direction.
Construct the entrance by wrapping the folded edges of the
canopy
around two free-standing poles. You can then place the poles
side
by side to close the tepee’s entrance.
Place all extra canopy underneath the tepee poles and inside
to
create a floor for the shelter.
Leave a 30- to 50-centimeter opening at the top for
ventilation if you
intend to have a fire inside the tepee.
One-Pole Parachute Tepee
You need a 14-gore section (normally) of canopy, stakes, a
stout center
pole, and inner core and needle to construct this tepee. You
cut the suspension
lines except for 40- to 4
centimeter lengths at the
canopy’s
lower lateral band.
To make this tepee (Figure
5)—
Select a shelter site and scribe a circle about 4 meters in
diameter on
the ground.
Stake the parachute material to the ground using the lines
remaining
at the lower lateral band.
After deciding where to place the shelter door, emplace a
stake and
tie the first line (from the lower lateral band) securely to
it.
Stretch the parachute material taut to the next line,
emplace a stake
on the scribed line, and tie the line to it.
Continue the staking process until you have tied all the
lines.
Loosely attach the top of the parachute material to the
center pole
with a suspension line you previously cut and, through trial
and error,
determine the point at which the parachute material will be
pulled
tight once the center pole is upright.
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Then securely attach the material to the pole.
Using a suspension line (or inner core), sew the end gores
together
leaving 1 or 1.2 meters for a door.
No-Pole Parachute Tepee
You use the same materials, except for the center pole, as
for the
one-pole parachute tepee.
To make this tepee (Figure
6)—
Tie a line to the top of parachute material with a
previously
cut suspension line.
Throw the line over a tree limb, and tie it to the tree
trunk.
Starting at the opposite side from the door, emplace a stake
on the scribed 3.
to 4.3-meter circle.
Tie the first line on the lower lateral band.
Continue emplacing the stakes and tying the lines to
them.
After staking down the material, unfasten the line tied to
the
tree trunk, tighten the tepee material by pulling on this
line,
and tie it securely to the tree trunk.
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One-Man Shelter
A one-man shelter you can easily make using a parachute
requires a
tree and three poles. One pole should be about 4.5 meters
long and the
other two about 3 meters long.
To make this shelter (Figure
7)—
Secure the 4.
meter pole to the tree at about waist height.
Lay the two 3-meter poles on the ground on either side of
and in the
same direction as the 4.
meter pole.
Lay the folded canopy over the 4.5 meter pole so that about
the
same amount of material hangs on both sides.
Tuck the excess material under the 3-meter poles, and spread
it on
the ground inside to serve as a floor.
Stake down or put a spreader between the two 3-meter poles
at the
shelter’s entrance so they will not slide inward.
Use any excess material to cover the entrance.
The parachute cloth makes this shelter wind resistant, and
the shelter is
small enough that it is easily warmed. A candle, used
carefully, can keep
the inside temperature comfortable. This shelter is
unsatisfactory, how--
ever, when snow is falling as even a light snowfall will
cave it in.
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Parachute Hammock
You can make a hammock using 6 to 8 gores of parachute
canopy and
two trees about 4.5 meters apart (Figure
8).
Field-Expedient Lean-To
If you are in a wooded area and have enough natural
materials, you can
make a field-expedient lean-to (Figure
9) without the aid
of tools or
with only a knife. It takes longer to make this type of
shelter than it
does to make other types, but it will protect you from the
elements.
You will need two trees (or upright poles) about 2 meters
apart; one
pole about 2 meters long and 2.5 centimeters in diameter;
five to eight
poles about 3 meters long and 2.5 centimeters in diameter
for beams;
cord or vines for securing the horizontal support to the
trees; and other
poles, saplings, or vines to crisscross the beams.
To make this lean-to—
Tie the 2-meter pole to the two trees at waist to chest
height. This is
the horizontal support. If a standing tree is not available,
construct a
biped using Y-shaped sticks or two tripods.
Place one end of the beams (3-meter poles) on one side of
the horizontal
support. As with all lean-to type shelters, be sure to place
the
lean-to’s backside into the wind.
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Crisscross saplings or vines on the beams.
Cover the framework with brush, leaves, pine needles, or
grass, starting
at the bottom and working your way up like shingling.
Place straw, leaves, pine needles, or grass inside the
shelter for
bedding.
In cold weather, add to your lean-to’s comfort by building a
fire reflector
wall (Figure
9). Drive four 1.
meter-long stakes into the
ground to
support the wall. Stack green logs on top of one another
between the
support stakes. Form two rows of stacked logs to create an
inner space
within the wall that you can fill with dirt. This action not
only strengthens
the wall but makes it more heat reflective. Bind the top of
the
support stakes so that the green logs and dirt will stay in
place.
With just a little more effort you can have a drying rack.
Cut a few
2-centimeter-diameter poles (length depends on the distance
between
the lean-to’s horizontal support and the top of the fire
reflector wall).
Lay one end of the poles on the lean-to support and the
other end on
top of the reflector wall. Place and tie into place smaller
sticks across
these poles. You now have a place to dry clothes, meat, or
fish.
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Swamp Bed
In a marsh or swamp, or any area with standing water or
continually wet
ground, the swamp bed (Figure
10) keeps you out of the
water. When
selecting such a site, consider the weather, wind, tides,
and available
materials.
To make a swamp bed—
Look for four trees clustered in a rectangle, or cut four
poles (bamboo
is ideal) and drive them firmly into the ground so they form
a
rectangle. They should be far enough apart and strong enough
to
support your height and weight, to include equipment.
Cut two poles that span the width of the rectangle. They,
too, must
be strong enough to support your weight.
Secure these two poles to the trees (or poles). Be sure they
are high
enough above the ground or water to allow for tides and high
water.
Cut additional poles that span the rectangle’s length. Lay
them
across the two side poles, and secure them.
Cover the top of the bed frame with broad leaves or grass to
form a
soft sleeping surface.
Build a fire pad by laying clay, silt, or mud on one comer
of the
swamp bed and allow it to dry.
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Another shelter designed to get you above and out of the
water or wet
ground uses the same rectangular configuration as the swamp
bed. You
very simply lay sticks and branches lengthwise on the inside
of the trees
(or poles) until there is enough material to raise the
sleeping surface
above the water level.
Natural Shelters
Do not overlook natural formations that provide shelter.
Examples
are caves, rocky crevices, clumps of bushes, small
depressions, large
rocks on leeward sides of hills, large trees with
low-hanging limbs, and
fallen trees with thick branches. However, when selecting a
natural
formation—
Stay away from low ground such as ravines, narrow valleys,
or creek
beds. Low areas collect the heavy cold air at night and are
therefore
colder than the surrounding high ground. Thick, brushy, low
ground
also harbors more insects.
Check for poisonous snakes, ticks, mites, scorpions, and
stinging ants.
Look for loose rocks, dead limbs, coconuts, or other natural
growth
than could fall on your shelter.
Debris Hut
For warmth and ease of construction, this shelter is one of
the best.
When shelter is essential to survival, build this shelter.
To make a debris hut (Figure
11)—
Build it by making a tripod with two short stakes and a long
ridgepole
or by placing one end of a long ridgepole on top of a sturdy
base.
Secure the ridgepole (pole running the length of the
shelter) using
the tripod method or by anchoring it to a tree at about
waist height.
Prop large sticks along both sides of the ridgepole to
create a
wedge-shaped ribbing effect. Ensure the ribbing is wide
enough to
accommodate your body and steep enough to shed moisture.
Place finer sticks and brush crosswise on the ribbing. These
form a
latticework that will keep the insulating material (grass,
pine needles,
leaves) from falling through the ribbing into the sleeping
area.
Add light, dry, if possible, soft debris over the ribbing
until the insulating
material is at least 1 meter thick—the thicker the better.
Place a 30-centimeter layer of insulating material inside
the shelter.
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At the entrance, pile insulating material that you can drag
to you
once inside the shelter to close the entrance or build a
door.
As a final step in constructing this shelter, add shingling
material or
branches on top of the debris layer to prevent the
insulating material
from blowing away in a storm.
Tree-Pit Snow Shelter
If you are in a cold, snow-covered area where evergreen
trees grow and
you have a digging tool, you can make a tree-pit shelter
(Figure
12).
To make this shelter—
Find a tree with bushy branches that provides overhead
cover.
Dig out the snow around the tree trunk until you reach the
depth
and diameter you desire, or until you reach the ground.
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Pack the snow around the top and the inside of the hole to
provide
support.
Find and cut other evergreen boughs. Place them over the top
of the
pit to give you additional overhead cover. Place evergreen
boughs in
the bottom of the pit for insulation.
See Chapter 15 for other arctic or cold weather shelters.
Beach Shade Shelter
This shelter protects you from the sun, wind, rain, and
heat. It is easy to
make using natural materials.
To make this shelter (Figure
13)—
Find and collect driftwood or other natural material to use
as
support beams and as a digging tool.
Select a site that is above the high water mark.
Scrape or dig out a trench running north to south so that it
receives
the least amount of sunlight. Make the trench long and wide
enough
for you to lie down comfortably.
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Mound soil on three sides of the trench. The higher the
mound, the
more space inside the shelter.
Lay support beams (driftwood or other natural material) that
span
the trench on top of the mound to form the framework for a
roof.
Enlarge the shelter’s entrance by digging out more sand in
front
of it.
Use natural materials such as grass or leaves to form a bed
inside the
shelter.
Desert Shelters
In an arid environment, consider the time, effort, and
material needed
to make a shelter. If you have material such as a poncho,
canvas, or
a parachute, use it along with such terrain features as rock
outcropping,
mounds of sand, or a depression between dunes or rocks to
make your
shelter.
Using rock outcroppings—
Anchor one end of your poncho (canvas, parachute, or other
material)
on the edge of the outcrop using rocks or other weights.
Extend and anchor the other end of the poncho so it provides
the
best possible shade.
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In a sandy area—
Build a mound of sand or use the side of a sand dune for one
side of
the shelter.
Anchor one end of the material on top of the mound using
sand or
other weights.
Extend and anchor the other end of the material so it
provides the
best possible shade.
Note: If you have enough material, fold it in half and form
a 30-centimeter
to 4
centimeter airspace between the two halves. This
airspace will reduce
the temperature under the shelter.
A belowground shelter (Figure
14) can reduce the midday
heat as
much as 16 to 22 degrees C (30 to 40 degrees F). Building
it, however,
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requires more time and effort than for other shelters. Since
your physical
effort will make you sweat more and increase dehydration,
construct
it before the heat of the day.
To make this shelter—
Find a low spot or depression between dunes or rocks. If
necessary,
dig a trench 45 to 60 centimeters deep and long and wide
enough for
you to lie in comfortably.
Pile the sand you take from the trench to form a mound
around
three sides.
On the open end of the trench, dig out more sand so you can
get in
and out of your shelter easily.
Cover the trench with your material.
Secure the material in place using sand, rocks, or other
weights.
If you have extra material, you can further decrease the
midday temperature
in the trench by securing the material 30 to 45 centimeters
above the other cover. This layering of the material will
reduce the
inside temperature 11 to 22 degrees C (20 to 40 degrees F).
Another type of belowground shade shelter is of similar
construction,
except all sides are open to air currents and circulation.
For maximum
protection, you need a minimum of two layers of parachute
material
(Figure
15). White is the best color to reflect heat; the
innermost layer
should be of darker material.
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