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FIELD-EXPEDIENT WEAPONS, TOOLS, AND EQUIPMENT
As a soldier you know the
importance of proper care and
use of your weapons, tools, and equipment. This is especially
true of your knife. You must always keep it sharp and
ready to use. A knife is your most valuable tool in a survival
situation. Imagine being in a survival situation without
any weapons, tools, or equipment except your knife. It
could happen! You might even be without a knife. You
would probably feel helpless, but with the proper knowledge
and skills, you can easily improvise needed items.
In survival situations, you may have to fashion any number
and type of field-expedient tools and equipment to survive.
Examples of tools and equipment that could make
your life much easier are ropes, rucksacks, clothes, nets,
and so on.
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Weapons serve a dual purpose. You use them to obtain and
prepare food and to provide self-defense. A weapon can
also give you a feeling of security and provide you with the
ability to hunt on the move.
CLUBS
You hold clubs, you do not throw them. As a field-expedient
weapon,
the club does not protect you from enemy soldiers. It can,
however,
extend your area of defense beyond your fingertips. It also
serves to
increase the force of a blow without injuring yourself. There
are three
basic types of clubs. They are the simple, weighted, and sling
club.
Simple Club
A simple club is a staff or branch. It must be short enough for
you to
swing easily, but long enough and strong enough for you to
damage
whatever you hit. Its diameter should fit comfortably in your
palm, but
it should not be so thin as to allow the club to break easily
upon impact.
A straight-grained hardwood is best if you can find it.
Weighted Club
A weighted club is any simple club with a weight on one end. The
weight may be a natural weight, such as a knot on the wood, or
something
added, such as a stone lashed to the club.
To make a weighted club, first find a stone that has a shape
that will
allow you to lash it securely to the club. A stone with a slight
hourglass
shape works well. If you cannot find a suitably shaped stone,
you must
fashion a groove or channel into the stone by a technique known
as
pecking. By repeatedly rapping the club stone with a smaller
hard stone,
you can get the desired shape.
Next, find a piece of wood that is the right length for you. A
straightgrained
hardwood is best. The length of the wood should feel comfortable
in relation to the weight of the stone. Finally, lash the stone
to
the handle.
There are three techniques for lashing the stone to the handle:
split
handle, forked branch, and wrapped handle. The technique you use
will depend on the type of handle you choose. See Figure
1.
2
3
Sling Club
A sling club is another type of weighted club. A weight hangs 8
to 10
centimeters from the handle by a strong, flexible lashing
(Figure
2).
This type of club both extends the user’s reach and multiplies
the
force of the blow.
EDGED WEAPONS
Knives, spear blades, and arrow points fall under the category
of edged
weapons. The following paragraphs will discuss the making of
such
weapons.
Knives
A knife has three basic functions. It can puncture, slash or
chop, and
cut. A knife is also an invaluable tool used to construct other
survival
items. You may find yourself without a knife or you may need
another
type knife or a spear. To improvise you can use stone, bone,
wood, or
metal to make a knife or spear blade.
Stone
To make a stone knife, you will need a sharp-edged piece of
stone, a
chipping tool, and a flaking tool. A chipping tool is a light,
blunt-edged
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tool used to break off small pieces of stone. A flaking tool is
a pointed
tool used to break off thin, flattened pieces of stone. You can
make a
chipping tool from wood, bone, or metal, and a flaking tool from
bone,
antler tines, or soft iron (Figure
3).
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Start making the knife by roughing out the desired shape on your
sharp
piece of stone, using the chipping tool. Try to make the knife
fairly thin.
Then, using the flaking tool, press it against the edges. This
action will
cause flakes to come off the opposite side of the edge, leaving
a razor
sharp edge. Use the flaking tool along the entire length of the
edge you
need to sharpen. Eventually, you will have a very sharp cutting
edge that
you can use as a knife.
Lash the blade to some type of hilt (Figure
3).
Note: Stone will make an excellent puncturing tool and a good
chopping tool
but will not hold a fine edge. Some stones such as chert or
flint can have very
fine edges.
Bone
You can also use bone as an effective field-expedient edged
weapon.
First, you will need to select a suitable bone. The larger
bones, such as
the leg bone of a deer or another medium-sized animal, are best.
Lay
the bone upon another hard object. Shatter the bone by hitting
it with a
heavy object, such as a rock. From the pieces, select a suitable
pointed
splinter. You can further shape and sharpen this splinter by
rubbing it on
a rough-surfaced rock. If the piece is too small to handle, you
can still
use it by adding a handle to it. Select a suitable piece of
hardwood for
a handle and lash the bone splinter securely to it.
Note: Use the bone knife only to puncture. It will not hold an
edge and it
may flake or break if used differently.
Wood
You can make field-expedient edged weapons from wood. Use these
only to puncture. Bamboo is the only wood that will hold a
suitable
edge. To make a knife using wood, first select a
straight-grained piece
of hardwood that is about 30 centimeters long and 2.5
centimeters in
diameter. Fashion the blade about 15 centimeters long. Shave it
down
to a point. Use only the straight-grained portions of the wood.
Do not
use the core or pith, as it would make a weak point.
Harden the point by a process known as fire hardening. If a fire
is possible,
dry the blade portion over the fire slowly until lightly
charred.
The drier the wood, the harder the point. After lightly charring
the
blade portion, sharpen it on a coarse stone. If using bamboo and
after
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fashioning the blade, remove any other wood to make the blade
thinner
from the inside portion of the bamboo. Removal is done this way
because
bamboo’s hardest part is its outer layer. Keep as much of this
layer as possible to ensure the hardest blade possible. When
charring
bamboo over a fire, char only the inside wood; do not char the
outside.
Metal
Metal is the best material to make field-expedient edged
weapons.
Metal, when properly designed, can fulfill a knife’s three
uses—puncture,
slice or chop, and cut. First, select a suitable piece of metal,
one
that most resembles the desired end product. Depending on the
size and
original shape, you can obtain a point and cutting edge by
rubbing the
metal on a rough-surfaced stone. If the metal is soft enough,
you can
hammer out one edge while the metal is cold. Use a suitable
flat, hard
surface as an anvil and a smaller, harder object of stone or
metal as a
hammer to hammer out the edge. Make a knife handle from wood,
bone, or other material that will protect your hand.
Other Materials
You can use other materials to produce edged weapons. Glass is a
good
alternative to an edged weapon or tool, if no other material is
available.
Obtain a suitable piece in the same manner as described for
bone. Glass
has a natural edge but is less durable for heavy work. You can
also
sharpen plastic—if it is thick enough or hard enough—into a
durable
point for puncturing.
Spear Blades
To make spears, use the same procedures to make the blade that
you
used to make a knife blade. Then select a shaft (a straight
sapling) 1.2 to
1.5 meters long. The length should allow you to handle the spear
easily
and effectively. Attach the spear blade to the shaft using
lashing. The
preferred method is to split the handle, insert the blade, then
wrap
or lash it tightly. You can use other materials without adding a
blade.
Select a 1.2- to 1.5-meter long straight hardwood shaft and
shave one
end to a point. If possible, fire harden the point. Bamboo also
makes an
excellent spear. Select a piece 1.2 to 1.5 meters long. Starting
8 to 10
centimeters back from the end used as the point, shave down the
end at
a 45-degree angle (Figure
4). Remember, to sharpen the edges,
shave
only the inner portion.
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Arrow Points
To make an arrow point, use the same procedures for making a
stone
knife blade. Chert, flint, and shell-type stones are best for
arrow points.
You can fashion bone like stone—by flaking. You can make an
efficient
arrow point using broken glass.
OTHER EXPEDIENT WEAPONS
You can make other field-expedient weapons such as the throwing
stick,
archery equipment, and the bola.
Throwing Stick
The throwing stick, commonly known as the rabbit stick, is very
effective
against small game (squirrels, chipmunks, and rabbits). The
rabbit stick
itself is a blunt stick, naturally curved at about a 45-degree
angle. Select
a stick with the desired angle from heavy hardwood such as oak.
Shave
off two opposite sides so that the stick is flat like a
boomerang (Figure
5). You must practice the throwing technique for accuracy and
speed.
First, align the target by extending the nonthrowing arm in line
with
the mid to lower section of the target. Slowly and repeatedly
raise the
throwing arm up and back until the throwing stick crosses the
back at
about a 45-degree angle or is in line with the nonthrowing hip.
Bring the
throwing arm forward until it is just slightly above and
parallel to the
nonthrowing arm. This will be the throwing stick’s release
point. Practice
slowly and repeatedly to attain accuracy.
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Archery Equipment
You can make a bow and arrow (Figure
6) from materials
available in
your survival area. To make a bow, use the procedure described
under
Killing Devices in Chapter 8.
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While it may be relatively simple to make a bow and arrow, it is
not
easy to use one. You must practice using it a long time to be
reasonably
sure that you will hit your target. Also, a field-expedient bow
will not
last very long before you have to make a new one. For the time
and
effort involved, you may well decide to use another type of
fieldexpedient
weapon.
Bola
The bola is another field-expedient weapon that is easy to make
(Figure
7). It is especially effective for capturing running game or
low-flying
fowl in a flock. To use the bola, hold it by the center knot and
twirl it
above your head. Release the knot so that the bola flies toward
your
target. When you release the bola, the weighted cords will
separate.
These cords will wrap around and immobilize the fowl or animal
that
you hit.
LASHING AND CORDAGE
Many materials are strong enough for use as lashing and cordage.
A
number of natural and man-made materials are available in a
survival
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situation. For example, you can make a cotton web belt much more
useful
by unraveling it. You can then use the string for other purposes
(fishing
line, thread for sewing, and lashing).
Natural Cordage Selection
Before making cordage, there are a few simple tests you can do
to determine
you material’s suitability. First, pull on a length of the
material
to test for strength. Next, twist it between your fingers and
roll the
fibers together. If it withstands this handling and does not
snap apart,
tie an overhand knot with the fibers and gently tighten. If the
knot does
not break, the material is usable. Figure
8 shows various
methods
of making cordage.
Lashing Material
The best natural material for lashing small objects is sinew.
You can
make sinew from the tendons of large game, such as deer. Remove
the
tendons from the game and dry them completely. Smash the dried
tendons
so that they separate into fibers. Moisten the fibers and twist
them
into a continuous strand. If you need stronger lashing material,
you can
braid the strands. When you use sinew for small lashings, you do
not
need knots as the moistened sinew is sticky and it hardens when
dry.
You can shred and braid plant fibers from the inner bark of some
trees
to make cord. You can use the linden, elm, hickory, white oak,
mulberry,
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chestnut, and red and white cedar trees. After you make the
cord, test
it to be sure it is strong enough for your purpose. You can make
these
materials stronger by braiding several strands together.
You can use rawhide for larger lashing jobs. Make rawhide from
the
skins of medium or large game. After skinning the animal, remove
any excess fat and any pieces of meat from the skin. Dry the
skin
completely. You do not need to stretch it as long as there are
no folds
to trap moisture. You do not have to remove the hair from the
skin.
Cut the skin while it is dry. Make cuts about 6 millimeters
wide. Start
from the center of the hide and make one continuous circular
cut, working
clockwise to the hide’s outer edge. Soak the rawhide for 2 to 4
hours
or until it is soft. Use it wet, stretching it as much as
possible while
applying it. It will be strong and durable when it dries.
RUCKSACK CONSTRUCTION
The materials for constructing a rucksack or pack are almost
limitless.
You can use wood, bamboo, rope, plant fiber, clothing, animal
skins,
canvas, and many other materials to make a pack.
There are several construction techniques for rucksacks. Many
are very
elaborate, but those that are simple and easy are often the most
readily
made in a survival situation.
Horseshoe Pack
This pack is simple to make and use and relatively comfortable
to carry
over one shoulder. Lay available square-shaped material, such as
poncho,
blanket, or canvas, flat on the ground. Lay items on one edge
of the material. Pad the hard items. Roll the material (with the
items)
toward the opposite edge and tie both ends securely. Add extra
ties
along the length of the bundle. You can drape the pack over one
shoulder
with a line connecting the two ends (Figure
9).
Square Pack
This pack is easy to construct if rope or cordage is available.
Otherwise,
you must first make cordage. To make this pack, construct a
square
frame from bamboo, limbs, or sticks. Size will vary for each
person and
the amount of equipment carried (Figure
10).
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CLOTHING AND INSULATION
You can use many materials for clothing and insulation. Both
man-made
materials, such as parachutes, and natural materials, such as
skins and
plant materials, are available and offer significant protection.
Parachute Assembly
Consider the entire parachute assembly as a resource. Use every
piece
of material and hardware, to include the canopy, suspension
lines,
connector snaps, and parachute harness. Before disassembling the
parachute, consider all of your survival requirements and plan
to use
different portions of the parachute accordingly. For example,
consider
shelter requirements, need for a rucksack, and so on, in
addition to
clothing or insulation needs.
Animal Skins
The selection of animal skins in a survival situation will most
often
be limited to what you manage to trap or hunt. However, if there
is an abundance of wildlife, select the hides of larger animals
with
heavier coats and large fat content. Do not use the skins of
infected
or diseased animals if at all possible. Since they live in the
wild,
animals are carriers of pests such as ticks, lice, and fleas.
Because of
these pests, use water to thoroughly clean any skin obtained
from any
animal. If water is not available, at least shake out the skin
thoroughly.
As with rawhide, lay out the skin, and remove all fat and meat.
Dry
the skin completely. Use the hind quarter joint areas to make
shoes
and mittens or socks. Wear the hide with the fur to the inside
for its
insulating factor.
Plant Fibers
Several plants are sources of insulation from cold. Cattail is a
marshland
plant found along lakes, ponds, and the backwaters of rivers.
The fuzz
on the tops of the stalks forms dead air spaces and makes a good
downlike
insulation when placed between two pieces of material. Milkweed
has pollenlike seeds that act as good insulation. The husk
fibers from
coconuts are very good for weaving ropes and, when dried, make
excellent
tinder and insulation.
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COOKING AND EATING UTENSILS
Many materials may be used to make equipment for the cooking,
eating,
and storing of food.
Bowls
Use wood, bone, horn, bark, or other similar material to make
bowls. To
make wooden bowls, use a hollowed out piece of wood that will
hold
your food and enough water to cook it in. Hang the wooden
container
over the fire and add hot rocks to the water and food. Remove
the rocks
as they cool and add more hot rocks until your food is cooked.
CAUTION
Do not use rocks with air pockets, such as limestone and
sandstone. They
may explode while heating in the fire.
You can also use this method with containers made of bark or
leaves.
However, these containers will burn above the waterline unless
you keep
them moist or keep the fire low.
A section of bamboo works very well, if you cut out a section
between
two sealed joints (Figure
11).
CAUTION
A sealed section of bamboo will explode if heated because of
trapped air
and water in the section.
Forks, Knives, and Spoons
Carve forks, knives, and spoons from nonresinous woods so that
you do
not get a wood resin aftertaste or do not taint the food.
Nonresinous
woods include oak, birch, and other hardwood trees.
Note: Do not use those trees that secrete a syrup or resinlike
liquid on the
bark or when cut.
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Pots
You can make pots from turtle shells or wood. As described with
bowls,
using hot rocks in a hollowed out piece of wood is very
effective. Bamboo
is the best wood for making cooking containers.
To use turtle shells, first thoroughly boil the upper portion of
the shell.
Then use it to heat food and water over a flame (Figure
11).
Water Bottles
Make water bottles from the stomachs of larger animals.
Thoroughly
flush the stomach out with water, then tie off the bottom. Leave
the top
open, with some means of fastening it closed.
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